Visit to Pashupatinath

And I had been told that there were NO Wishy Washy cows in Nepal! Well, here is proof.


I chose to visit the Hindu sacred temple complex Pashupatinath (on the East side of town), the day following TEEJ. I did not expect to find a sacred cremation site on the Bagmati River that flows next to it. If you are squeamish about death, read no further.

Interesting structure. Put a tarp over it and you have quite the building!

Chapati vendor on the street. These guys are amazing, both for their speed and their art.

In front of the Hospice, I am told the simultaneous cremations of the royal family took place here, after the royal massacre of 2001.


View from the North, looking South. The Bagmati flows South to the Ganges. Nepali Hindus claim this river is more sacred than the Ganges since this Himalayan spring fed river is a primary source of the Ganges. Don't tell the Indian Hindus that.

Note the "fire manager/undertaker" stoking the fire to enhance/insure complete immolation. These guys do this all day, every day. Tough work. They need a Union!

An Italian Sadu. Some Italian guy who came to visit and stayed (dropped out).

View from across the river.

Note the circular piers in the foreground. Those are the old burn sites, no longer used.

Also, note the roof to protect from the rain and sun. Not all were covered. I learned that the pier used is a function of cost. If you desire to pay more rupees, your burn will be assured to not be rained out, your fire manager will be more experienced (and attentive), and more and better materials utilized to ensure a good hot fire. Of course, lower castes are not allowed under the roof, even if they wished to pay.

Better look at the lineup.

Hospice. Behind each door is a small room with a bed and chairs. When it is determined that further treatment is futile and the end is imminent, you can be brought here and wait it out with your family and friends. Then, it is only a short walk to the cremation (to the left in this picture). The shorter the duration between death and cremation, the better the karma, I guess?

Check out the FEET! Do not double click on the image unless you desire greater detail.

A fresh delivery from the hospital.

The clean up. The fire manager, sometimes with the help of family, will sweep the smoldering ashes into the sacred river (after picking through the debris for "rememberences". The young assistant (red shirt) will make a number of trips with the pail to the bottom of the steps to refill the bucket. The rising steam indicates the heat generated by these fires.

Awaiting their turn for the burn! When a pier becomes available, the family will open the shroud and wash the body with river water (usually at the direction of the fire manager), say a prayer or two, rewrap and carry to the newly built pyre of wood (built by the fire manager and his youthful assistant). They will perform a few quick ceremonies, again usually at the direction of the fire manager, then light it off. A slow initial burn seems desirable.

Ah, the life of the Sadu (aka Holy Man). I think if you can't make it out there in the real world, you drop out and become a Sadu. You simply roam the shrines, asking for alms. Great work if you can find it.

Former airline management convention. Sorry assed collection of Sadus!