Errata

The Monsoon has arrived. Each day we come to the airport to see if the WX will permit flying. Sometimes we can and sometimes we cannot. Come back tomorrow. Today, we cannot so I have the time to Blog but don't have much to say.

I got a haircut yesterday. Now, that was a bit of an adventure. Not a word of English was exchanged but we got it done. Not all bad, considering the price. At that price, I can get another one and see if we can get it right.

I have learned to dislike the government here in Nepal. I read yesterday that Nepal was ranked amongst nations as nearly a failed state. The government would have you believe that things are just fine and any problems that exist are the fault of the Maoists. IMO, the government consists of a bunch of inept, incestuous, criminal fat asses! The Maoists do, in fact, agitate a lot and cause problems but I contend that when the government won't listen, you agitate and cause problems. I can't blame them. The Maoists won the last election but were outmaneuvered by the wealthy class and now are not able to bring about much needed reform. They stand for change and any change would be better than what exists now.

Then there is the Air Traffic Services. Operationally, I deal with Bharatpur Tower. I have never seen such a thing. All flights must file a flight plan (for our students, this means a long walk to the control tower and back). All flights must call for engine start (yes, even our DA-20s way out here on our own ramp and hangar). The request for taxi will be, "Taxi to RWY 15, line up and report ready". They are soooo busy that they put you onto the runway. When requsting T/O clearance, you will be told, " Report arrival in Training Zone". At that time, you will be told to "Report Opns Normal at 1150Z" ( which will be the next 10 minute mark, and every ten minutes thereafter!). By the time you finish all the reporting, it is time to head back to the airport. Just shut the radio off and act stupid. You'll fit right in.

When requesting return, the drill is, "descend to circuit altitude and report joinng left downwind for RWY 15". When you do so, it will be, "Report final". Not another moving airplane for 100 miles! You will ALWAYS be instructed to Report Final. I am told that the question has been asked, "Why can't you JUST CLEAR ME TO LAND while in downwind?". The answer is that it would be unsafe to do so and DO NOT tell ME how to control!. Ah, the concern for safety covers much ineptness. There is a new airport manager. She has NO aviation experience, clearly just a political hack. She has been allowed to get on the radio and practice controlling. Her English is bad and you know when you call, in addition to the usual delay to put the tea cups down and walk to the radio to respond, she has to ask the controller standing behind what to say, which she immediately butchers! It's even worse than that!

Life in Bharatpur is boring! There is not a lot to do when not flying. OK, that is the rant for the day.

About Shivani Air

It is difficult to get a clear picture of what is happening here.

Shivani Air in Bharatpur is made up of 5 pieces.

1. Airport Hangar

2. School House located about 10 minutes from the airport

3. Instructor Residence located about 10 minutes from the airport

4. Other Worker (mainly MX and ramp folks) Residence located somewhere

5. Student Residence located about 10 minutes from the airport

All these places are not really near each other. Rather odd. So the drivers are always shuttling someone somewhere.

In addition, there is the corporate office in Kathmandu.

So, you can see that to staff all this requires quite a bit of manpower.

More Pictures

Meet An Joo (L) and Neeta (R). These are the most gracious ladies who run the house. Don't mess with these girls! They live in a residence at the back of the house. They each have a young child about 5 years old who never seem to run out of energy or stop laughing. Bikrim, the husband of An Joo, has just returned from working overseas (not sure where) and has joined the crowd and now works for Shivani Air as one of the shuttle drivers. Neeta's husband is said to be working in some foreign country. This is common, I think.

A fast moving rain shower floods half the hangar. Funny story here. I beat this storm back from the training zone to the airport by not more than two minutes. Karl had gone to Simara to practice approaches down there. When asked why I was hanging around after, I said that I wanted to make sure Karl got back OK. They told me that they had called Simara tower and Karl was holding. I assumed due to WX. Meanwhile, Karl was being told that VNBP (Bharatpur) was closed due to an accident. He knew that Buddha and Yeti had no more flights so he assumed that it was me. Turned out that he never saw any WX and I had no accident??

These ladies are leaving the airport when we are arriving each morning. There is a crowd of about 10 or 12, normally. I am told that they are harvesting the free grass to feed their water buffalo and saving the airport the mowing costs. You can see that you don't want to mess with these girls either!

I was told today that there have been two sightings this week of COBRAs just a few feet beyond where these ladies are walking. When we preflight the a/c, we are walking in that grass, RIGHT THERE. No one but me thinks this is unusual. No more preflights for me!

This is our guard at the house guarding the garage where we keep the bikes. I have no idea what his name might be. He opens the gate when we come and go with a smart salute.

This is the fuel farm, located in the hangar. No smoking, please!

The airport entrance. You can't make this stuff up. The main herd of water buffalo had already gone by when I was finally able to get my camera out. Yes, that is a large water buffalo.

Below is another picture of An Joo and Neeta. An Joo (L) speaks not a word of English. Neeta knows a few key words, at best.

Flying Hard

Today is WED. I have purposely not blogged recently because: 1. no pictures until today 2. power outages have increased and will wipe out your work suddenly 3. I have finally been flying hard.

The flying finally has increased in pace. It has been very challenging. New students of varying levels of progress and abilities and a stupid ATC were big contributors. However, NO RADIOS on my side made me dependent on the student relaying his inartful conversations with ATC to me. This problem was grossly magnified by NO InterPHONE. Add to this a signifigant language difference and 105 degree temp - well, they don't pay enough for that kind of work. Each day, MX would stay late and fix it and each day it was not fixed. Ahhh, the joy and pleasure of Nepali time.

I noticed the students would bring a towel on the flight and now, so do I. Good strategy.

BTW, I did not know the CAL pilot who passed away inflight recently. RIP! Now, everybody move up a number.

I will try to take pictures at the house and tell a little about the people at the house next time.

Pictures

Approaching the down town area of Bharatpur.

Shivani Air hangar from behind.

Fueling operation in progress.

Meet Reena, VP of Personnel and Administration.

The Wheels! Mine on the left and Karl's (mine when he leaves) on the right.

How to NOT Fly Cont'd

It is FRI 0940. Insurance problems persist and it appears that the home office cannot solve the problem. I come to the airport at 0745 each day, hang around for a bit and leave before noon.

Yesterday, Karl, the other instructor who has been here for @ 14 months and is preparing to leave shortly, offered to give me the jungle tour. Little did I suspect. On motorcycles, this venture takes on a whole new meaning.

The wildlife count included elephants, camels, water buffalo, cows, sheep (LAMBS), goats, horses, kingfishers and (3) RHINOS! One river crossing was absent the bridge that was there 3 months ago so we pushed the bikes across, while Karl assured me that the resident crocs stayed upstream of our location. OK... This bothered not a bit the kids using this as the local swimming hole. I recall news reports of people going missing (usually old folks or young folks) and remnants being found in the woods some time later. Ah, it is the way.

The paths were rough at times. OTW, mostly dusty dirt roads. On our way out, at a small cluster of mud huts that serves as a village, a Bandha had been declared and the road effectively blocked with trucks. Hmmm, what to do? It would be dark soon and the only alternative was back whence we came which would mean night driving in the jungle, water crossings included. The Bandha leaders told us that they had no beef with us tourists but would lift no finger to help us. There was a small open thatched building with some rudimentary tables and chairs nearby, aka the local restaurant. We know an opportunity when we see it, so we pushed our bikes through the restaurant, asking several "patrons" if they could please move aside for a moment. This action allowed the Bandha guys to not lose face and we were underway. Quite a day!!

I cannot describe the heat and humidity, so I won't try.

How to NOT FLY!

On, TUE, I was looking forward to finally getting in the air for a full day of flying. I was scheduled for 4 students which, at @ 2 hrs ea, would be an eight hr day (in this heat, that is above and beyond). Ha, I forgot where I was. My airplane, 9N-AIF, had not recovered from yesterday's electrical problems. MX felt that an all night charge would fix it, despite my advice to "just buy a new battery". If EXT PWR could not flow through the battery, then it was at the end of its useful life. So, Student # 1 is CX while MX installs a new battery.

But wait, Student # 1 is not even here at the 0800 start time. Turns out that she was working a deal with one of the MX crew. He would call over to the Dorm (Hostel) if it appeared that the airplane might be ready. So, instructor is up early and ready to go while Student # 1 relaxes, waiting for a call from MX. This results in Student # 1, who would have been the first to fly with me, is now Student # 14, the last to fly with me.

MX, having installed the new battery, finds a new problem with the EGT gauge. Student # 2, as it turns out, is out of town and neglected to tell scheduling. So, I continue to wait.

Student # 3 (sched for 1230 lcl) was also playing the possum game with MX. However, the airplane was finally fixed at 1250 and I was ready to fly. The student was called by the MX fellow at 1250 and arrived at the airport @ 1300. I had him file the flight plan, which requires a sweaty walk to the tower and then preflight the aircraft out in the hot sun (Did I mention that it is severely HOT & HUMID!). When he returned his drenched, sorry assed self to the office to brief the flight, he was shocked when I informed him that you lose the privilege of flying with me when you are late. So, come back tomorrow. It didn't take long for word to spread that there was a new sheriff in town and Nepali time will not be tolerated. Student # 4 showed up 1 hr early and we had a fine flight at the end of the day. So, it was my first flight on my own in Nepal. And I did find the airport.

You had to know that there was more to the story. As I was leaving the airport at @ 1700, I was informed that, due to insurance problems (I didn't even ask), WED flying was CX. Ha! At least it gave me time to write this blog post. Come back tomorrow. Trend noted.

You say Bandha & I say Strike

It is MON at 1120 lcl and it has been a most interesting day. I set out early this AM to drive around town a bit with, hopefully, little or no traffic before going to the airport for my 3 students starting at 0800. Few vehicles on the road but not due to the early hour. They forgot to tell me there was a Bandha. I learned when I came to a crowd obstructing a round-a-bout and was stopped. They reached over and took the bike key. A very aggressive act. No driving is allowed, I guess. There were at least 50 of them so I deliberately showed little resistance. Once we agreed that I was just a stupid tourist (hellooooo, do I look Nepali), they returned the key and waved me through. I sneered and turned around. On the other side of town, I saw another roadblock so I turned around and went to the airport. Strike ONE!

Upon arrival at the airport, I was, for the first time, challenged by a weapon toting soldier (very young) who would not accept my statement of "Shivani Air". No, he wanted "Airport ID". Like I have one of those. So, I showed him my NH Driv LIC (seems to carry undue weight here) and, duly impressed, he allowed me through.

Upon arrival at Shivani Air hanger, I noticed an increased level of activity and agitation. The students had decided to Bandha and refused to fly. Strike TWO. Now, there's a new one. It got quite heated. The workday for most, by law, starts at 1000, so we had to wait for the VP of Administration & Personnel, Reena, to come in and adjudicate this dispute. I note a trend. Never did find out what the problems were, both here and on the street. Just don't care.

So, no flying today. Trend noted. Come back tommorow.

Did I mention it is dangerously HOT & HUMID.

Jungles and Tigers

Today is SUN. This morning, Karl and I went to the Simara Airport and back. Looks easy enough. Not really. In fact, I found it very challenging indeed. The language, procedures, lack of complete approach plates, non-radar environment, poor controllers, well the list doesn't stop. Complicated by my unfamiliarity with those procedures that do exist, well, you see the point!

I had not foreseen that the flight would take us directly across the Royal Chitwan National Park. The practice area that I mentioned on FRI is bordered by the Rapti and Narayani Rivers. From the point of confluence of these two large rivers, start North to Bharatpur and that defines our practice area. Our students are instructed to NOT cross either river due to jungle and terrain considerations when flying solo and not X-C. It was along the Rapti River on FRI that we saw the 3 wild elephants.

OK. FF to today. I guess I should have known that the Park was ALL jungle. The appreciation for one's aircraft engine's continued operation soared when I considered the emergency landing possibilities. Holy Cow. They have Tigers down there and, I bet, all the other wildlife that goes along with such things. And, there are NO open spaces except for the numerous dry riverbeds that likely attract the previously mentioned wildlife.

I have relearned the art of riding a motorcycle. Disclaimer: I do not recommend this activity! But it is the only alternative to effectively get around. These are large bikes. The norm here. Smaller bikes are rarely seen. Riding here is not for the faint of heart. I had to dodge a few water buffalo today.

Anyhow, after the IFR to Simara, I was to fly with my fist student. We met, briefed, preflighted and closed the door on schedule. MX had mentioned the possibility of a weak battery. Beware when MX "mentions" things. You move the checklist quickly to get in the air, where you have a fighting chance to survive. Glass is not your friend! So, we crank and get nothing, ala a dead battery. So, we wait for an EPU (External Power Unit aka Power Cart) to be brought out. Again nothing. The Battery is beyond hope and nearly, us as well.

So, my two students for today are CX. Tomorrow, I go for three. My time utilization is getting better because, DID I MENTION THAT IT IS HOT & HUMID! The extent to which this affects your operation is amazing.

I'm working on pics. Be patient.

First Flight

On WED, after an excruciatingly painful bus ride from Katmandu, I arrived at Bharatpur. I think that is the correct spelling. The Shivani Air web site stated 13 km East of KTM. The map shows a city with a name close to this at that location. So, I was expecting a short bus ride. What I got was a 6 hour, 146 km journey Southwest of KTM, approaching the Indian border. But as we descended off the KTM plateau, it became hot. Not uncomfortable hot but dangerous hot and humid. It all came back to me. I had forgotten how bad it gets. At least I finally found the airport.

There seemed to be an expectation that I would get off the bus and into an airplane. Take me the hospital, not the ramp.

So WED was spent moving into my new home. It actually is quite nice and comes with a guard, maid, and cook. There are three very nice motorcycles and no car. There are two vans/trucks (flight school vehicles) that will transport me on request. And they drive on the Left, just as in the UK! So, I will be getting checked out on the bikes, if for no other reason, to get the breeze. Did I mention that it was HOT and HUMID!

I would post some pics but there are computer issues here that will require time to resolve.

Anyhow, I did an orientation flight this afternoon with Karl, the instructor who has been here for one year and is anxious to go home. The WX did not support an IFR flight so I will do that on SUN (SAT is an off day). They wanted me to do an Instrument Rating Exam today, ignoring the fact that I have not flown IFR here. There is some conflict in regard to the lack of understanding the realities of the challenges faced. Also on SUN, I will fly with my first basic students.

Karl is a young instructor from Seattle and is very good. He has all this stuff figured out and is a valuable resourse.

Today, we buzzed some elaphants. You won't do that every day.

The Air Services Controllers don't give much service. You are on your own out here.

I am out of time. Will update later.

Random Pictures

Traffic Police. They stand around and blow there whistles and NOBODY does a thing.

Meet Dipa. street Urchin, extraordinaire.

Tourist Polioce. Uh oh, I wonder what they want? I think they wonder what they want.

Dinner. No, this guy was sighted while eating dinner.

Meet Hasni. He is Indian from Agra. This guy's face had such character.

Finally

Meet Ramesh. He is the VP of Safety and Regulatory Compliance for Shivani Air here in Katmandu. When he first described his duties to me, I immediately bestowed this title upon him. Today, he summoned me to the Ministry of Aviation at the airport to receive my Nepali "Authorization". He simply chuckled when I asked him how many asses I would have to kiss. I had an audience with the Minister of Aviation and 6 or so of his honchos. I bet I was the ONLY pilot in the room. A dog and pony show, the likes of which I haven't seen since the military. Only took 10 days. The Nepalis tell me this was GOOD.

So, early tomorrow I go to Bhatakpur, or something like that. I expect that it will be VERY hot there. Katmandu is, I think @ 4400 ft MSL. B-pur is @ 800 ft MSL, I think. Probably 5 maybe 10 degrees hotter. No fun there!

I suppose I could bore you, the reader, with my many adventures around Katmandu. But I will not. I am really ready to leave.

I am uncertain of the connection possibilities in B-pur but I will update when I have something to say, as soon as I can.

Would someone please help me re the upload and sequencing of pictures when I am creating a New Post on this blog? I can upload OK but I can't figure out how to put the picture where I want it. It defaults to the top. Hence, only one photo at a time. Help me please!

Chai, Chillum & Chapati

Warning: Nostalgia Alarm You have been warned.

I had been in Katmandu for 9 days and had seen NO Pie Shops. When I am here in 1973, one of the main missions was to go to Pie Shop and have pie. Real American pie (apple, strawberry, whatever you wanted). You travel halfway around the world for pie. No Pie Shop but I did find The Pipe Shop on Freak Street. See picture.

So, I am in a bookstore and reading a book about the history of Katmandu in the early 1970's and it referred to Freak Street, Pie Shops, and "Chai Chillum & Chapati". It all became clear to me. I have been in the NEW tourist section called Thamel. The OLD tourist section, called Dosai, was some distance on the other side of town. So, off I went to find the much missed and greatly revered Pie Shops. The short version is that the Pie Shops are no longer. Freak Street is still there. And that will lead you to the "CCC". Chai, Chillum (the Ganga, mon) and Chapati (cheap locally baked wafer bread).

Himalyas

Well, the point of this post was the Himalyas. I think I need photo help? Still can't figure out how to sequence the pics!

Tonight, I have been invited to home of a waiter that works at my favorite restaurant (think Afgani Food). I think it is very unusual for this to occur. He is a Buddhist and has promised a Buddhist meal, whatever that means. He lives near my hotel and will come for me at 1830 and bring me to his home. He has a wife and 4 yr old son. Should be interesting.

Today is a Government Holiday in addition to being an off work day. So no progress at the Aviation Ministry. SUN is a work day so maybe by MON, I will leave Katmandu and go to Bhatakpur. We shall see.

Mountain Flight

Cows wandering where they wish. This taken from a taxi.

OK, sorry. This will read better if you start at the bottom and read up.

FO: CA, would you like to run the After Landing Check List?

CA: No, I must call boyfriend first. No moss growing on CA Sherpa! You can not make this stuff up!

On a right base for the return to the airport. Check out the fog bank at the far end of the runway. I think we are VFR.

Meet the First Officer. ?? er... WTF?

Meet A/H (Air Hostess) Shigura.

Is this my pilot?

Today, despite the heavy rainshowers at the airport, I did the Mountain Flight and it was quite the experience. I will try some pics today. However, I can't seem to sequence them to my desires and I have given up.

Early morning FOD Check.

I'll be damned! She is my pilot. Meet CA A. G. Sherpa.

Meet the First Officer. Oh, this guy is a retired airline management type who has sought out the truth to atone for his lifetime of screwing airline workers.

Well, this looks familiar. An ATR 42.

Moutain Flight

Well, I got up early and made it to the airport for the Mountain Flight. I now know a bit more. It operates out of the Domestic Terminal (aka the cesspool). Ugh! Customer service was not a priority (heck, let's just say there is none!) but we did make it out to the airplane by 0800 for the 0630 flight. It is the custom to send a Yeti Airlines Merlin off first to test the WX waters. He radioed back that at 23000 ft (FL230), he was still in the clouds. Their Merlin is limited to FL230 and can go no higher. It is a less capable aircraft. Our B1900D is certified to FL250 (although those of us who have flown it know it will go higher) but it was felt that the chance of good visibility was small, so the decision was to CX (common during Monsoon). Oh well. Come back tomorrow! And I will and I will report back.

The CAAN continues to shuffle my paper work from one corrupt minister to the next, thus justifying the need for Ministers. Designated Shivani Air personnel go to the Aviation Ministry each day and wait. Only to be told to come back tomorrow. I offer each day to go in person and they decline my offer. Perhaps they fear that my Western intolerance for this rubbish will manifest itself in an unseemly way. It is clear that the Ministry needs help solving their problems. And I am here to help. Meanwhile, I stay here, bored, in Katmandu. I am told maybe MON. We shall see. I am relearning the concept of Nepali Time. I don't mean time zones. You MUST add at least 1 hour (or more) to the time that a Nepali has stated. It is the way. Of course, I have threatened to go on Nepali Time, as well. When I am scheduled to fly, perhaps I will show up, maybe not.

After returning to the hotel I met an Austrailian expat who flies Dornier 228s for the smallest of the commuters, Sita Air. It was very informative. He has invited me along for a flight to Lukla, a staging area for Everest Base Camp. I have done some reading on this. While I think there is at least one other airport at a higher elevation on the way to Base Camp, Lukla is, by far, the scariest. I will take it under advisement.

Well, that's my day. Beats working! Now, where is that Ghorka Beer?

Dinner with Shivendra

Today is THU. Last night, I was invited to the house of the owner of Shivani Air, Shivendra, for a Nepali meal. It was great but I noted that the women who cooked the food didn't sit at the table. Certainly a cultural difference.

It turns out that there are two commuter type airlines that do the Mountain Flight, Yeti Airlines and Bhudda Air. Bhudda Air is owned by Shivendra and he has offered to treat me to a Mountain Flight tomorrow. Bhudda Air operates 5 B1900 and 3 ATR aircraft, both of which I am type rated. Anyhow, the Mountain Flight is in the B1900 and will leave very early in the AM. It generally will fly along the base of the hills Easterly, turn back West to give the pax on the other side the view and back to Katmandu after about 1 hour plus of flight.

Last night I learned that Shivendra went to Russia to learn to fly the Mi 8 helicopter. He flew it in Nepal as a civilian freight carrier serving the rural areas that don't have roads. I had many questions about this training and flying. Also, he has a retired Ghurka soldier living in his home who came with the house when he bought it 20 years ago. This fellow fought in Burma during WWII. WOW!

The CAAN has forwarded my unreproachable paper work to another ministry or another poobah or something, so nothing yesterday. Shivendra says that by FRI, it will be done. We shall see. So, it looks like I won't get to the flight school until SAT. We shall see.

Don't mess with the cows!

That's right! Cows are considered sacred and far exceed the value of humans. I was reminded of this today when, in the middle of a Katmandu traffic jam, a cow decided to wander by. I didn't have the camera so I missed the shot. But there will be others. Cows go ANYWHERE, ANYTIME unfettered. Many years ago, I saw a very stupid man try to push a cow out of the way and a crowd set upon him and beat the daylights out of him.

Anyhow, the news of the day. No strike today. I won't report on the electricity because right after sending yesterday's post, it went out. So, no jinx today. I went to Shivani Air corporate office to meet and greet. Including the two top officers, there are 3 or 4 others doing operational dispatch work and and 2 others doing clerical type stuff. Continental Airlines was an easier interview.

Tomorrow, I will go to CAAN (Civil Aviation Authority Nepal) to obtain my Nepal Pilot Certificates. At least, that is the plan. HAH! We shall see.

If all goes well, on THU perhaps I will journey to Bharakpur to the airport. Then I will study and learn all the Nepali Aviation rules. I wonder what they can do to me if I violate the rules?

Just to simplify things, the Monsoon has arrived. Officially, it is scheduled to commence JUN 1, yesterday. Sure enough, no precip until yesterday & today. Clockwork. But, I will say that it drops the temp to a more welcome number.

Probably no pics till I get to Bhatakpur. Oh well. Some sharp eyes out there may notice the different spellings I have used for the location of the flight school facility. I have seen so many different spelling (sometimes referring to another city) that I have given up. I spell it like I see it at the moment.

Just learned of the Air France accident. That will be a difficult investigation.

I recommend to all, if you have not already, set up Google Dashboard. It will make accessing this, and all other Google blogs you wish to follow, SO much easier!

Katmandu

I have arrived in Katmandu. The journey was long and tiring and I have nothing good to say about Indian and Nepali Customs and Security idiots nor the Indira Ghandi Airport in Delhi, where I spent considerable time hurrying up and waiting.

I was to obtain my Nepali pilot licences today but there is a general strike protesting whatever so everything is closed and nothing gets done. Nothing new there. You must come back tomorrow. My favorite phrase. At least the electricity is on, for now. No pictures but soon.

I will be settling in at the flight school in Bhataktpur on THU and will have more time then.